TokenSolutions

The installation of the PNP delete would be very strait forward if it were not for the BS2S being underneath the passanger seat. None the less it is failry strait forward. The four lead plug that is the three foot wire plugs into the B1S2 sensor connector. The two prong 9 foot wire has to be fished through the passenger side firewall grommet. Remove the passenger side kick panel and door trim (easier than it sounds), fish the wired beneath the passenger seat (that is moved to the full forward position), unplug the B2S2 and plug the sim in. Done.

But now onto the new version, Gen 1.5

Gen 1.5 now gives the end user the ability to change the configuration from 01-03, and 04+ (configuration how-to details at end of post)

To do so, you will un-screw the blank end panel that does NOT have wires going through it. Pull it away from the enclosure and this car will slide out as the photos will demonstrate. Note this sim is configured for an 01-03.






The card pictured above ^^^ is an 01-03 configuration, note the two jumpers in play.
This card below found in the "chip" style (to be wired in at the ECU) is in the 04+ configuration. Note only one jumper is used, and it is jumping different pins.



This card in the last pic ^^ as previously mentioned is configured for an 04+. To configure to an 01-03, you move the jumper at the far right (JP6) up one. You then simply jumper JP4 by the large capacitor and it will now work on an 01-03. Be sure to slide it back into the same level as it was before and screw the end panel back on.

P0420/P0430 fix.

As the IS300 platform ages and some have around 100K miles or more on their primary o2 sensors, the sim's output is not satisfactory for the ECU. This resistor mod alters the output for this condition.

Change the two resistors circled (R2 and R3) to 1.8K (1800 ohm) resistors. Please PM me for a set of these resistors.

Ok, So I have a question then about the P0420/P0430 codes that I'm getting. From reading the above post I'm gathering that the b1s1 and b2s1 sensors are old and not reading like new sensors. This is why we need to do the resister mod. My questions is if we repalce the b1s1 and b2s1 sensors with new ones will this eliminate the need to change the resistors. I hooked up a snapon ethos and read the live data and the stock sensor is showing 0.015v to .035v on my stock b1s2 sensor and the simulator shows between .175v to .640v varying by 2 hundredths of a volt every once in a while. Does this seem correct. I know that this is a more expensive fix but I have a 108k miles anyways and eventually I'm sure they will go out and would not want to have to change the resisters back later on when replacing the b1s1 and b2s1 sensors. Also the box gets very hot in my engine bay even though I havn't put my supercharger on yet. Would it be fine to wire up the simulator backwards putting the short wire in the cabin and running the long wire to the B1s2 plug. Its 110 degrees here in texas right now and after driving 30 minutes the box is to hot to hold in your hand for more than 5 seconds.

Thanks,
Jared